![]() They outlast Copper, Chrome or Tin plated steel micro clips by a factor of 10. Like let's say a car engine that his dips and such.I and My club have been using These 1-1/8" smooth Jaw Stainless steel test clips for over 13year now. It works perfectly fine on irregular pieces. ![]() The backside of the piece does not need to be flat for this to work. The pieces in this post and in my first are good examples of what is safe to do it on. Lastly-I would not use this method on very small pieces or-where there is not a lot of plastic to dissipate the heat. I have been doing this process a long time and it works very well. This all sounds harder than it really is. The formula is pretty foolproof, but you need to get a feel for how much pressure to exert, and in keeping the piece steady until cooled enough. I would encourage people to practice on scrap first. All that remains is a blackened area where it was connected. When you are ready to remove the handles you simply bend them away from the piece and they easily pop off. You risk over-heating the piece and you don't get as good a connection. NOTE: If you must redo it-clip off the previous melt point because leaving it there messes up the formula. But-if you do-just follow the same process. I can even do a final soap wash with them attached if you are careful not to stress the connection too much. If you let the sprue burn too long-it will become hotter-and then it's a guessing game of how long to wait for attachment. This will not damage the outward facing side as long as you follow my process. It should take only a few minutes to fully cool. Hold the sprue and piece as steady as you can for about 10 seconds. Just push it gently until you see the plastic spread out as shown below.Ħ. After the flame is out, wait 4 seconds and then press the sprue into the unseen side of the piece. After 3 seconds immediately blow out the flame.ĥ. Do the 1 one thousand 2 one thousand 3 one thousand trick.Ĥ. ![]() The camera makes the flame look bigger and hotter than it actually is. Once ignited, pull the lighter away and let the sprue burn on its own. ![]() You will need to hold the sprue in the flame to accomplish it. Get a lighter and hold the flame at the end of the sprue just long enough for the plastic to ignite. Cut a piece of sprue to use as a handle.Ģ. It works fantastic, if you follow the process closely.ġ. I came up with this trick on my first modeling tour. If anyone is interested in my heated sprue process-let me know. I am noting this because it is a good example of my work flow.įor very tiny parts, my last option is rolling a piece of Tamiya tape onto itself and sticking the part to it. As it is, it is usable.īelow- here is an example of my old system. I will probably get something thicker so that the wires are buried deeper. The box is from a holiday light insert that I taped up. Anyway-I already had them mounted as such and I left them like that for this painting session. In fact-this job is what prompted me to get new clips. That, and I was short on clips through attrition. My old clips were not holding things very well and the clips were becoming loose on the dowel. In this case, I drilled into some sprue and used them as a holder. This is a bad example because I would normally clip right to the locating pin on the piece.
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